Yala Safari to Nuwara Eliya, the land of tea

Safari in Yala National Park.  

 Before the sun had even thought of rising, a jeep swings by our hotel and picks us up for an early morning safari.

Yala National Park is about 378 miles large and has the world’s biggest concentration of leopards. We expected to see majestic elephants, sloth bears, peacocks, and crocodiles. We will enter through Gate 2 - Palatupana

Yala Park Entrance - Here Kitty Kitty.

Yala Park Entrance - Here Kitty Kitty.

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There is a line up at the park gate as other excited tourists wait and anticipate the wildlife on the other side of the large gate. There are about 7 jeeps so I bet high season, it is crazy busy getting through the entrance. With paperwork in hand, our driver removes our canvas roof and we race with the others to see who will be the first to see the spotted cat.

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I could barely control my excitement as we start our search. Within a couple of minutes, our jeep comes to a quick stop. Our driver has found us a sloth bear up in the large tree. Unlike our Canadian bear, this one has a very long skinny snout. 

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Looks like our guide has keen eyes. YEAH!

The jeeps radio each other to keep the group informed of wildlife spottings.

Already the cost of the safari has been worth it.  We encounter peacocks, elephants, water bison, deer, birds of all types, crocodiles, but no leopards. The best our driver can do is show us fresh tracks.

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Midway through our tour, we head to the beach for our mid-morning break. It gave us a chance to chat with others.  The beach is covered with dung so we know that we are surrounded by animals. 

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Dung on beach - lots of Elephants roam here

Dung on beach - lots of Elephants roam here

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A large Termite pile about 3 feet high gave the perfect backdrop to propped LJ for a photo opportunity.  So glad I did not encounter what might have popped out of one of the holes. 

Thirty minutes later, we were off again to find leopards.

Elephants are abundant. It is amazing to see these majestic mammals roaming free.  Not chained or behind walls of steal bars.

Our driver spots a Mama elephant with her furry baby. She is very protective of her young baby.  For the life of me I would have NEVER seen her tucked behind the branches. 

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Our leopard search proved that this wild cat is illusive. 

We had seen a number of animals in Yala and the safari is totally worth the fee. I booked well in advance and as we had a group of 3 we had the jeep to ourselves. If you plan to do this I would recommend you pack small binoculars. The wildlife is beautiful.

Below are a few pictures of some of the animals. Scroll to view.

 Out of nowhere, a huge rain cloud booms above us. Our driver instinctively pulls over and quickly pulls the canvas roof over the jeep. and no sooner had he snapped down the last button, the cloud opens up to dump monsoon rain. Instantly the road fills with water.

(*Remember we are on the cusp of the rainy season)

  Time to get out. The road get slick and sloppy.

As we dash our way toward the gate, we get onefinal view of a elephant running for higher dryer ground or the canopy of a big tree. 

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I am so glad I booked the early morning half day safari, as I think the full day would be cancelled with the rain. Luck was on our side. Yes, I sniff horseshoes at night!

Once back to our hotel, we grab a shower and breakfast.

As we are literally the ONLY guests the staff come over to chat. It is my shock to hear from them, that there was a road closed to my destination due to rain washouts.

 Oh Boy, what could that mean?

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 I get online to check out my options. Apparently, they have removed debris off road and it is now open to 1-way traffic but travel is not advised. I decide to take our chances and continue to our next stop. If I was to drive another route it would double my time and with the horrible roads, I do not want to be on them any longer than I must. (I am still regretting my decision to drive) 

This is going to be another crazy trek on our trip. The writing is on the wall.

Heritance Tea Factory here I come, Let's hope sooner than later.

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Sri Lanka is filled with romantic landscapes,  rising mountains, lush forests, and gushing waterfalls,  Today this will be our journey as we head north to the area of Nuwara. Eiliya. The central highlands of the island are filled with mountains carpeted with lush green tea gardens, but with the rain we are likely not going to enjoy and sunny scenic route.

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The drive is only 170 kms but the mountain roads are extremely windy. and lets now forget the delays at police huts at each end of towns. I wonder how long this will take. In Canada, a couple hours. In Sri Lanka? Google maps says almost 6 hours. 

On route we see WILD water falls that are literally brown with the large deluge of rain swelling the ravine.

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OMG, the water is rushing, is it possible that this bridge could wash out as well?  

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As I must travel over the bridge, I take one last look, cross my fingers and hit the gas. This is Scary! Even the monkey is avoiding  the view.

It is unfortunate that my fear got the best of me. This is Ravana Falls.

Folklore shares that a demon king named Ravana, kidnapped princess Sita and held her in the caves behind the falls. Today this fall is a location for bathers but NOT today.

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The boys have a good Ha ha over the car wash. If you can believe they have a hose in the river and with the pressure it makes a make-shift car wash. Wonder what they charge? Does it come with drying as well? So many questions, so little time.

Driving here is an adventure for sure! We can’t read signs and as we travel in area that are not as populated, so we have devised a travel plan that included going online to google maps and from here we take satellite arial shots for corners we need to take. We save these pictures to my phone. (I am not sure of internet reception as we travel, so this works like a charm.)

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Harvesting Leeks

Harvesting Leeks

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As we ascend, we discover tea plantations and many workers along road. What a life this is. My understanding is the average income is about 12,000 rupees per month or about $240 Canadian. I am blessed.

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Hey, Did you know that Sri Lanka is the 4th largest producer of tea and the 3rd largest exporter?

Tea is KING here.  Sir Lipton from Glasgow bought his first plantation here back in 1890.

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Finding our way to our hotel included and very steep climb up what I hope is a one-way road up and hopefully another road coming back down. It was seconds after turning off that I had my first, yikes experience. The road is a 2- way and I meet a large van, negotiating getting around each other is a nightmare. NOT FUN AT ALL! Could this car be any bigger? Now I understand why Tuk-Tuks are abundant. These 3 wheel carts would certainly suit a road this size but the underpower of the engine might mean pushing it up the steep hill.  

(I have visuals in my head of the Fiinstones, Yaba daba doo!)

By the time I reach the hotel I am ready for a drink or two.  A traditionally dressed man meets us with a tray of hot towels and then comes the tea. I could get use to this very easily.

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After checking in, we ride a very old elevator to our room. Our beautiful view is looking out over the rolling hills filled with tea. The pane glass makes you feel as if you were transported many years back. So romantic. I can see why this is a wedding destination.

 I booked a tea picking tour. So glad they did not share about snakes and rats 😊 found in the hills until after. I did not see any but frankly I was not looking.

We were decked out in local attire – a saree for me, and a sarong for Brett –a basket hangs off our forehead to collect our leaves.

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Here are a few facts I remember

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Black tea is the most common tea and Ceylon black tea is considered the cleanest tea in the world.

To make black tea, the leaves are hand plucked by the masterful female tea pluckers. They pick only two leaves and a bud in large quantities, which are then withered, rolled and fermented, then dried and sifted.

The largest wiry leaves are called Orange Pekoe.

The process of making green tea is different to black tea, even though it comes from the same kind of plant. The leaves are unfermented so they maintain their antioxidant attributes. The leaves are picked, withered and heated, then rolled before drying and sifting.

After learning the value of tea tips, that is my choice to pluck.

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It takes a bit of practice to make sure the leaves end up in my basket rather than in the bush behind me. Interesting to note, that professional tea pluckers are required to produce at least 15 kgs a day. I was lucky if I had ½ KG. Best I keep to my Epicure Business! In the morning we will pick up our yield and bring this home to Canada as a memory.

Dinner was divine in the Kenmare Restaurant, located on premises. This was once the sifting room of the old tea factory. We decided to have a selection of local cuisine. Again, another amazing meal.

Our waiter suggested we check out the train car at the back of restaurant. How could we say no?  Apparently, you can eat in the car.  Too late now. It was very nice for them to offer us a tour after our dinner. The hotel is not that busy so we are catered to in every way.

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We stepped up into the car to find old photos of year past. We grab a seat, thanks to our conductor, and he starts a tape that shares stories of the area. Clickety clack, clickety clack…. It was very interesting but what was totally fun was when the car started to sway. Too funny. Brett and I had a good laugh. The fellow has moved to the front of the car and is pushing his weight side to side to mimic a sway.  

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Pure fun, what a great way to end another day.

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(On a sad note) While walking, around I asked a few questions about the small village below us. I was told this was “Welfare”.  

Some homes appear to be ok and others are just scraps.

 

Asking more, I soon discovered that tea workers are underpaid and live a very meager life. I hear that a 10 Hour day can net less than $2 USD daily. 

 It breaks my heart to think of how I sit up the hill enjoying the luxury of this beautiful hotel while other struggle with daily life.

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In the morning I see young children climbing the steep mountain steps in school uniforms, I assume that schooling is covered, and my hope is their education will provide them a better life in the future.

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I say a prayer. On my return I will adopt another child through World Vision and pay my success forward. (Every bit helps.)