Cape Town - Mother City and our starting point to South Africa

I have had dreams of Africa and it is hard to believe we have finally started a trip that took 3 years to actually happen. We worked with an amazing Travel Agent- Rachel -Africa and You. She created a custom trip tailored for 4 of us. Little did we know that Covid would hit, countries would close and time would pass by. We had a 1/3 deposit down and we were in a holding pattern as one year moved to the next. Finally, we boarded our plane for a trip of a lifetime.

We started this trip for 4 and with the 3 years passing and many changes with our sons we converted to a trip for 2. We flew direct to Cape Town from New York, Happy to say, I slept like a baby.

While there, we stayed at More Quarters - a smaller stylish accommodation, well located with fantastic staff. We were within a couple blocks of Black Sheep which was one of the restaurants I wanted to dine. Food was excellent. Loved the different sharing plates and the fun, casual atmosphere.

For the next 4 days we will travel the area - Lion Head, Table Mountain and city tour, Cape Tour and a day to do as we wish.

IMO - perfect amount of time as we had our site on wine and wilderness.

The trek up Loin Head was originally to watch sunset but upon recommendation of our travel agent - decision made to hike during day as safety was a factor. At the time there were many reports of robbery, theft and ransoms. Covid was hard on many and desperate times create desperate people.

I am so glad we started our day with the hike. The view was spectacular the weather perfect not too hot and as we travelled shoulder season we had only a few people to negotiate mountain with.

BTW - We started at 9 AM

If you have viewed my trips you know I am go go go. Next, Table Mountain - you can hike up and down but for god sake… why? There is an amazing tram ride that makes 2 full rotations as it climbs elevation. This means every window view is excellent. Take the tram and plan to stay at top for at least 1 hour. Lots of paths and viewpoints. ONLY go if weather is conducive for viewing. Check the weather forcast and conditions before coming up Table Mountain. Bad weather days are always risky for taking the cable car. We cannot guarantee that we will be open. social media is a great place to check.

Information on tram tickets can be found here. Table Mountain Tickets can be purchased online which may speed things up but you will still need to get in a queue to travel. Should also mention to dress to hike. Sensible shoes a must. If weather should get bad the tram could shut down forcing your to walk the mountin. Plan accordingly. Layer clothing and have a water bottle at all times.

Bo Kaap - Malay Quarters - the first location I felt nervous of safety

A quick trip into Bo-Kaap area was almost more than I wanted. Orginal plan was to do a private cooking class in this area, again safety in mind - we skipped this. and decided to tour around the city.


Bo-Kaap, once the Malay area is a very popular IG stop. The painted house pop. I could not resist. (photo below) Apparently the reason for the colour is because while the building were leased, all the houses had to be white. When this rule was eventually lifted, and slaves were allowed to buy the properties, the houses were painted bright colours by their owners as an expression of their freedom.

Sad to say but this area has been overtaken with tent cities, burning garbage cans at night and people very aggressive for money. We only stopped for a very short time. We did get a chance to enter a few artist shops and I am sorry I did not grab something while there. In particual I loved the recycled wall art. I just couldn’t decide at the time and I would not venture back on my own.

As we approached our car we were swarmed. I am so glad our driver was street savvy and had spend time in the school of hard knocks. He protected us in every way, opening the car door quickly and pushing us in. We are grateful for his knowledge of lauguage and that he was not hurt in the altercation.

Our tour guide and driver was amazing. Only 1 parking ticket- lol

(did you know they have plates on road to identify cars parked in forbidden areas. Apparently when light to plate is obstructed a warning is sent and a ticket is on it way to your location. Yup - that’s big brother)

If in this area - make sure you watch yourself and know your surroundings. Daytime ONLY would be my recommendation.


We are famished so off we ventured to downtown, near the government buildings to enjoy lunch and a splendid cup of coffee - Truth Coffee, cited to be one of the best coffee shops in the world

Glad we ate when we did, not sure if I could stomach anything after going into Iziko Slave Lodge - one of the oldest building in Cape Town.

It is sobering to wander through this museum learning of the unthinkable history of slavery “from human wrongs to human rights” is the over riding theme. When we know better - we can do better. Imagine walking in the penned cells slaves were kept or passing a water well where slaves were dropped to wash before they were sold. Much like visiting the concentration camps, there seem to be a sad stillness in the air. Like life itself can not thrive even after the years have passed.

As we toured, we drove by the location of the hanging tree, benches still labelled White and NON-White, and the Slave bell which controlled the lives of slaves. To think slavery is still in cultures - SAD, seriously sad.

Within walking distance of the Slave Lodge you will find the monument for Sir Desmond Tutu. This Archbishop was instrumental in getting women ordained in the Anglican church and known for his work as a human rights activist. It is no small wonder that he earned his Nobel Peace Prize in 1984 for his key role in the fight against SA apartheid. 14 pieces of wood symbolize the 14 chapters in the constitution to bring the apartheid end and forge new beginnings.

Travel is an incredible teacher!

The next morning, off for a day of travel outside Mother City, Goal - Boulder beach - Cape of Good Hope - Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and all sights in between.

I should also mention that the botanical garden has its charm in all seasons but if you are wanting to see the fynbos at its best and the maximum number of plants in flower, the best time to visit is towards the end of winter, in spring or in early summer (August-November). I am here in Setpember and the timing is perfect. Spring is the most colourful time of year.



Boulder beach and the African penguins. They are sometimes called Jackass Penguins because of their call sounding like a donkey. The park has a fee and opens about 8 to 5. Parking is good. Entertainment was in the lot with tribal singing and young dances with alunimun cans attached to their socks. Very creative, Their jumping created a rhythm.

Cape of Good Hope Tour

How much time should you spend? I am not the person to answer as I could have watched for hours. Penguins are definately not graceful getting in water. Best way to discribe is they walk to water and wait for a wave to knock their bodies out underneath them. Almost a face plant and once in water, they morphe into looking like a duck. So unique and amazing.

While doing my research on locations I wanted to hit, I made sure to include dining. Again Rachel provided a great list to start with and then we started to book - I highly recommend doing this as soon as you can as a couple locations had no time slots and many were closed on certain days. Not sure if this was a post covid thing or standard routine. BTW I was making reservations about 3 months before needed.

I had heard so much about the beautiful African sunsets and wanted to ensure one of our meals would have a table with a view. Decided on a Camps Bay - one of the trendy promenade areas and a short uber ride away. What a crazy night we had. The service was horrible. in fact after sitting for about 40 minutes we had a drink and left. (they didn’t even come by to take order) We ordered our Uber and stood on street waiting for a ride that failed to come. Make another call and waited again. At least we had free viewing to a street brawl. Go figure, the couple standing next to us stole the restaurant managers phone. There was a shake down with fists flying and glasses breaking. Not exactly the night I had envisioned but it does make for interesting trip topics.

Another evening dinner included what I thought could either be a high note or a tourist flop. Welcome to GOLD - a 14 course dinner that has you tasting different cuisines from the continent.

I wish I had booked an earlier time that included drumming. (I had no idea- but now I do)

GOLD

Our table location was top floor overlooking stage where live music was played. The performances with amazing costumes and great food. Extras included facepainting and an invite to come on stage and dance your dinner caleries off.

Although our table location was a dud, the entertainers do travel upstairs a few times and make the rounds

Lesson learned. Book an earlier time slot - try 6 PM

Totally recommend and if possible ask for the main level.

We had 1 shopping day planned . This would be about the only time we would have access to malls and shops. Plan was to purchase and ship packages to our final hotel in Joburg. We could save on shipping by putting our purchases in checked bags for our flight home. Also this would get the items home when we arrived and not wait for weeks.

Signal - Cape Grace

I travel light - usually carry on ONLY. For this trip I tucked a sturdy bag from MEC inside my carryon that I could use when needed. Brilliant plan!

We ventured to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront area. Bingo! Gifts found. Off to PostNet to ship WITH insurance.

We enjoyed out time in Mother City and to close off our Cape town visit we booked a fancy dinner at Signal at Cape Grace. This hotel and Restaurant is located on a private quay between V&A Waterfront and the tranquil yacht marina. Nice attire and must. Cape Grace is a member of Leading Small Hotels of the World, the recipient of a number of awards, including Conde Nast readers’ Best Hotel in the World. and they totaly deserve it

OMG - so good.

Did not disappoint. Menu very appealing, ervice was faultless, decor spectular, including the bathrooms, and the flowers - stunning. Totally a place to go for a special occassion!

Side note: We even got to taste testers for new martini menu. It was their was to overcome the very loud, obnoxious couple who bickered the entire time. You just can’t control the guests, oh well.

We were impressed. 5 out of 5.

Cape Town was fantastic and a great starting point. I could go on and on but how about I let the photos speak for me.