Some trips test your patience. Some test your navigation skills. Sri Lanka tested everything — and handed me the best stories of my life in return.

We're heading north toward the Cultural Triangle, home of ancient Sinhalese royalty, UNESCO ruins, and — as I was about to discover — some very persistent roadside police. Allow 4-5 hours for this drive. Allow more if you're me.

Our breakfast is included and I can’t say enough about the AMAZING food here. Every meal blows me away. Savouring every bite,

As you recall, the drive up the hill was VERY narrow and totally out of my comfort zone. All night, I was figuring out a game plan back down to the larger highway. Getting down from our 2,000-meter perch in the Central Highlands required strategy. The road up had been white-knuckle narrow — one lane, sharp drops, and the unspoken rule of Sri Lankan roads: the biggest vehicle wins.

My plan? Safety in numbers. Before breakfast I'd already clocked a lovely Indian family at the next table — and noticed they'd done the smart thing: hired a driver. When they stood up to leave, so did we. We made a quiet 100-yard dash to the SUV and tucked in right behind them down the mountain.

It worked perfectly.

Hire a driver. I cannot say this enough. HIRE. A. DRIVER.

The descent from the highlands took us past plantation after plantation of tea — rolling hills of deep green, dotted with pickers in brightly colored saris moving through the rows. It's the kind of scene that stops you mid-sentence.

I pulled over. I had to.

No photograph does it justice, but I took a hundred anyway, hoping one might hold even a fraction of what my eyes were seeing. Just stunning — the kind of beauty that makes you quietly grateful you got on the plane.

In USA they have Hollywood - here they have Mackwoods - lol

Roadside cauldrons balanced on open flames offered corn on the cob to passing drivers. Sri Lanka's version of the drive-through. 😄

I haven’t been on the road for more than 30 minutes before I am stopped. Good Grief. A gal just can catch a break. Again, the police do not write me up but it appears the police are becoming more aggressive the further north I travel. (My comfort with being stopped daily is making me more confident in their presence. This will serve me well – Stay tuned.)

Once into the valley, we pass though Knuckle forestry area. This appears to be the spice area. I resisted! I will be travelling back this way, in a few days. I am excited to see spices in their Environment but that will wait. I want to reach our location in good time.

We are now in the Cultural triangle, home of ancient Sinhalese royalty. This area is loaded with ruins and restored temples. From everything I have read, my research indicates is a must visit area when in Sri Lanka.

The ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa were once capitals of the 4th century Sinhalese kingdom. - that has my name all over it. And I am more than ready to do some exploring.

As I turn onto the road past Dambulla, I encounter scary #2. — pulled over again.

By this point, daily police stops had become routine. But this one was different. This officer wasn't checking papers. He was looking for money.

He worked through his list methodically: my international license was invalid, my passport suspicious, I'd crossed a crosswalk, my court case would be expensive and take weeks, I wouldn't be allowed to leave the country...

I listened. I nodded. I played completely, utterly dumb.

My thinking: paying a bribe could actually land me in jail. So I smiled, asked genuine questions, and when he mentioned court — I asked him for directions to the courthouse.

Back and forth we went for nearly 20 minutes, roadside in the Sri Lankan heat. The boys sat silent in the back seat. I did not move, did not pay, did not flinch.

Finally — finally — he ran out of options. He threw my identification through the window and shouted:

"You go — you CRAZY WOMAN, you!"

He didn't have to tell me twice.

I was already gone. 🚗💨

After three highway U-turns hunting for a hidden entrance, we turned down a small dirt road, passed through enormous wooden gates — and exhaled.

Aliya Resort & Spa. Aliya means elephant in Sinhala, and the resort honors that beautifully — elephants carved into walls, woven into décor, painted across surfaces everywhere you look.

But the crown jewel? An infinity pool with Sigiriya Rock as the backdrop. I stood at the edge and just stared. After the day I'd had, it felt like the universe saying well done.

The resort was brand new — only six months old — with just 50 guests. The staff weren't just welcoming, they were genuinely delighted to have us. That warmth you can't manufacture. We felt it immediately.

Aliya means elephant in Sinhala language and as you look around the resort you will see elephants represented in many areas.

Now. About the falls.

I'll blame the winding roads and elevation changes for what happened next. Vertigo. Yes. That's my story.

Fall #1: A small patch of water on the concrete outside our room. Flip flops with zero tread. Both legs in the air simultaneously. I jumped up immediately and attempted to look casual.

Fall #2: I was photographing a painted elephant. I misjudged a brick ledge. I went backward. I was wearing a sundress.

Four young lads nearby witnessed the entire performance. The giggling carried across the courtyard.

I stood up, smoothed my dress, and walked away without a limp — skinned legs and all. Camera: unharmed. Pride: negotiable.

The gal's still got it.

Tomorrow: 1,200 steps to the top of Sigiriya Lion Rock. Ancient ruins. More humidity. Probably more chaos.

I cannot wait.

The food here is extraordinary — every meal better than the last. The planning is working. We are exactly where we need to be, exactly when we need to be there.

Sri Lanka, you wild, beautiful, unpredictable place. I am completely in love with you.

BTW. My planning is working!!! So far we are where we need to be, when we need to be there. Loving this adventure. The food here is AMAZING, every dish top notch! Best vacation food I have ever had!!!

🌿 Jacqueline's Sri Lanka Essentials — Hire a driver. Non-negotiable for the Cultural Triangle roads. — Build in extra time for police stops heading north. It's routine — stay calm. — Never pay a roadside bribe. Play dumb, stay patient, don't flinch. — Book Aliya Resort & Spa — new, intimate, extraordinary staff, and that view. — Visit shoulder season for smaller crowds and better weather. — Protect your camera at all times. Especially near brick ledges. 📷😄

"You Go, Crazy Woman" — Driving Solo Through Sri Lanka's Golden Triangle